Gardening Feeds
Cymbidium Orchid Flowers
When choosing orchids, there are several beautiful and unique species to choose from. Many are afraid of orchids in general, overwhelmed by misinformation as to how to care for them. They are without a doubt, one of the most popular species of flora grown all over the world. With a few tips from expert growers, you can become successful at growing and cultivating them at home.
Cymbidium Orchids have long roots and need to be planted in deep pots so that the roots have plenty of room to grow. Pots don't need to be wide, narrow and deep work best as wide pots influence new root growth which takes too much energy from the plant. Deeper pots allow the roots to continue growing long and let the plant keep it's energy above soil, growing tall stalks with numerous flowers. It is important that the roots remain damp but not wet. When choosing a medium for potting you want something that will not hold too much moisture. It also needs to dry at an even pace so there are no wet pockets. Your climate will affect the type of medium you choose as well to maintain the proper amount of moisture. If you live in a dry climate, rock with a bit of tree bark may work to hold in some of the moisture. In humid areas, rock alone may work best to maintain the right level.
Reproducing of Cymbidium Orchids are achieved by division and replanting. If grown in deep pots as described, bulbs should be easy to separate and re-pot. If you decide not to reproduce your plant, it is still important to change the soil every few weeks to give your plant more room and a chance to grow. When you remove the roots from the medium, it's a good time to check and see how the roots are faring, are they dry and in poor condition or are they thick and healthy. Once divided, roots should be treated to avoid any harm to the plant. Elemental sulfur should do the trick nicely.
Watering should only occur about twice a week depending on the conditions. It's best to water around the edge, letting the water run through the container as to let the roots slowly access the water rather than watering directly on them. With a spray bottle, you can administer fertilizer to the flowers and spikes after watering the soil.
If you live in the north, you should probably allow your Cymbidium Orchids 70 percent shade. In the south you can increase that amount. If the leaves begin to fold and droop, it is likely due to too little light. If the leaves turn light yellowish green, you probably need to decrease the light allowed. The temperature is important to maintain with no more than 20 degrees between day and night.
With these tips, you should be able to grow happy and healthy Cymbidium Orchids with full blooms that keep your home full of beauty and peace.
By: Steve Fortuna
Steve Fortuna is an expert with Orchid Flowers, having been working with them for many years. You can find more information and pictures on phalaenopsis orchids, dendrobiums, cymbidiums, and more by clicking a link above.
Cymbidium Orchids have long roots and need to be planted in deep pots so that the roots have plenty of room to grow. Pots don't need to be wide, narrow and deep work best as wide pots influence new root growth which takes too much energy from the plant. Deeper pots allow the roots to continue growing long and let the plant keep it's energy above soil, growing tall stalks with numerous flowers. It is important that the roots remain damp but not wet. When choosing a medium for potting you want something that will not hold too much moisture. It also needs to dry at an even pace so there are no wet pockets. Your climate will affect the type of medium you choose as well to maintain the proper amount of moisture. If you live in a dry climate, rock with a bit of tree bark may work to hold in some of the moisture. In humid areas, rock alone may work best to maintain the right level.
Reproducing of Cymbidium Orchids are achieved by division and replanting. If grown in deep pots as described, bulbs should be easy to separate and re-pot. If you decide not to reproduce your plant, it is still important to change the soil every few weeks to give your plant more room and a chance to grow. When you remove the roots from the medium, it's a good time to check and see how the roots are faring, are they dry and in poor condition or are they thick and healthy. Once divided, roots should be treated to avoid any harm to the plant. Elemental sulfur should do the trick nicely.
Watering should only occur about twice a week depending on the conditions. It's best to water around the edge, letting the water run through the container as to let the roots slowly access the water rather than watering directly on them. With a spray bottle, you can administer fertilizer to the flowers and spikes after watering the soil.
If you live in the north, you should probably allow your Cymbidium Orchids 70 percent shade. In the south you can increase that amount. If the leaves begin to fold and droop, it is likely due to too little light. If the leaves turn light yellowish green, you probably need to decrease the light allowed. The temperature is important to maintain with no more than 20 degrees between day and night.
With these tips, you should be able to grow happy and healthy Cymbidium Orchids with full blooms that keep your home full of beauty and peace.
By: Steve Fortuna
Steve Fortuna is an expert with Orchid Flowers, having been working with them for many years. You can find more information and pictures on phalaenopsis orchids, dendrobiums, cymbidiums, and more by clicking a link above.
Categories: Gardening Feeds
Bonsai For Beginners
Bonsai for beginners is simply learning the basics of tree care. Do not water bonsai just before repotting; it is difficult to remove the old soil if it is too wet. New soil must be dry and generally is a mixture of clay, peat moss, leaf mold and sand, in equal parts. Much of the soil components should be sifted in order to separate the different sized particles.
The most necessary tools and materials are as follows:
Sharp scissors, a round brush, pointed chopstick, wire clippers, watering can (preferably one with fine spray), copper wire in a range of sizes, string, and dried and powdered moss which has grown on rock, i.e. a low growing moss.
The important ten steps:
1. Take tree out of container and clean out container with brush.
2. Prepare container. If the root mass of the bonsai will fill one-half to two-thirds of the space in the container after roots are trimmed, use copper wire to tie the tree in place. Arrange wire; tie (later). If the root system is small, it is better to tie with string after the repotting is finished.
3. Loosen the soil of the root mass. Use chopstick to loosen up the outer one-third of the soil of the root mass. Also loosen soil of the underside of the root mass (approximately the lower third).
4. Trim roots. Use large sharp scissors and cut away the outer third of the fibrous mass; also cut off about half of the roots on the underside. A little tree should not be repotted if it does not have a tightly packed root system, that is, if it is not completely "pot bound."
5. Position tree in container. Place tree in center if the container is round or square, and one-third in from the end if a rectangular or oval container.
6. Bonsai for beginners involves getting new soil in around the roots. This is done by rapid jabbing with a chopstick. The soil should not be pressed down by hand. Only the chopstick can make the soil go into the spaces between the roots. The jabbing motion should not be to the same depth each time. That is to say, the first motion should go down deep, and the next time a little shallower than before, etc. Also jab sideways as well as straight down. Generally speaking, this jabbing motion takes time. As the soil works down in and disappears, during the jabbing, constantly add more-until no more is needed.
7. Tie tree to container. Wires must be pulled up first then drawn together over the root mass, and twisted tight.
8. Brush away excess soil. If the surface soil is higher than the rim of the container, all the water will run off when the tree is sprinkled. Keep soil one-quarter inch lower than the side of the container. It is desirable to insert a protective rubber strip between wire and roots, so the wire will neither contact nor cut into the roots. Visible wire may be cut away after one growing season.
9. At this point only one finishing touch is needed. Spread a very thin layer of topsoil over the surface of the soil already in the container, and sprinkle dried powdered moss, through the fingers, onto the topsoil.
10. Water. Place the newly planted bonsai container in a tub of water in which the water level is the same depth as the container. At the same time, gently water from above.
By: Bob Flukes
If you are interested in growing your own bonsai - You can
visit: http://www.bestbonsaibook.com
The most necessary tools and materials are as follows:
Sharp scissors, a round brush, pointed chopstick, wire clippers, watering can (preferably one with fine spray), copper wire in a range of sizes, string, and dried and powdered moss which has grown on rock, i.e. a low growing moss.
The important ten steps:
1. Take tree out of container and clean out container with brush.
2. Prepare container. If the root mass of the bonsai will fill one-half to two-thirds of the space in the container after roots are trimmed, use copper wire to tie the tree in place. Arrange wire; tie (later). If the root system is small, it is better to tie with string after the repotting is finished.
3. Loosen the soil of the root mass. Use chopstick to loosen up the outer one-third of the soil of the root mass. Also loosen soil of the underside of the root mass (approximately the lower third).
4. Trim roots. Use large sharp scissors and cut away the outer third of the fibrous mass; also cut off about half of the roots on the underside. A little tree should not be repotted if it does not have a tightly packed root system, that is, if it is not completely "pot bound."
5. Position tree in container. Place tree in center if the container is round or square, and one-third in from the end if a rectangular or oval container.
6. Bonsai for beginners involves getting new soil in around the roots. This is done by rapid jabbing with a chopstick. The soil should not be pressed down by hand. Only the chopstick can make the soil go into the spaces between the roots. The jabbing motion should not be to the same depth each time. That is to say, the first motion should go down deep, and the next time a little shallower than before, etc. Also jab sideways as well as straight down. Generally speaking, this jabbing motion takes time. As the soil works down in and disappears, during the jabbing, constantly add more-until no more is needed.
7. Tie tree to container. Wires must be pulled up first then drawn together over the root mass, and twisted tight.
8. Brush away excess soil. If the surface soil is higher than the rim of the container, all the water will run off when the tree is sprinkled. Keep soil one-quarter inch lower than the side of the container. It is desirable to insert a protective rubber strip between wire and roots, so the wire will neither contact nor cut into the roots. Visible wire may be cut away after one growing season.
9. At this point only one finishing touch is needed. Spread a very thin layer of topsoil over the surface of the soil already in the container, and sprinkle dried powdered moss, through the fingers, onto the topsoil.
10. Water. Place the newly planted bonsai container in a tub of water in which the water level is the same depth as the container. At the same time, gently water from above.
By: Bob Flukes
If you are interested in growing your own bonsai - You can
visit: http://www.bestbonsaibook.com
Categories: Gardening Feeds
Growing Miniature Roses
If you love rosebushes but do not have ample space in your yard or home, consider growing miniature roses. These delicate little plants are just as beautiful as their bigger relatives; they just do not take up as much space.
If you plan to grow the miniature roses outside, you need to select a sunny location. They love the sunlight and will thrive in its sparkling rays. Watch the planting spot for several days to make sure there are no shadows cast where you plan to put the plant.
Dig a hole that will accommodate the plant and carefully remove it from its container. Be careful not to disturb the roots any more than necessary. Gently place the miniature rose in the hole and pack the dirt loosely around it. If you have cold seasons and plan to leave your bush outside, it is a good idea to cover the base with a couple of inches of mulch to protect the roots.
These little guys like a lot of water so be sure to give it a drink every day for the first couple of weeks. Continue to monitor the amount of moisture in the ground, and water the plant before the ground dries out around the plants base.
If you prefer to grow your miniature roses indoors, you will have to select a window that provides ample sunlight. If it looks as though the plant is not growing or bushing out, move it to another window. Even in the pot, the plant will require a lot of water, so check it everyday to be sure the soil is kept moist.
If your miniature rose bush is thriving and growing rapidly, you may need to transplant it to a larger pot. Do not increase the flower pot size too drastically, or the plant will refuse to grow. It needs a bit of cramping on its roots to continue to grow, just not to much cramping.
That's really all there is to it. Keep the plant well watered, whether it is indoors or outside, and your miniature rose bush will continue growing and producing beautiful flowers for years to come.
Just make sure you are aware that even though it is a miniature rose bush, it will grow to be about 3 to 4 foot tall. Allow the plant plenty of space, when you are deciding where to put it, or it will eventually look cramped.
By: Lee R. Martin
Resource Site : http://www.WonderfulRoses.com
Come to the site and look around. Lots of good information.
Also a Free Mini-Course, for anyone wanting more knowledge about rose gardening.
If you plan to grow the miniature roses outside, you need to select a sunny location. They love the sunlight and will thrive in its sparkling rays. Watch the planting spot for several days to make sure there are no shadows cast where you plan to put the plant.
Dig a hole that will accommodate the plant and carefully remove it from its container. Be careful not to disturb the roots any more than necessary. Gently place the miniature rose in the hole and pack the dirt loosely around it. If you have cold seasons and plan to leave your bush outside, it is a good idea to cover the base with a couple of inches of mulch to protect the roots.
These little guys like a lot of water so be sure to give it a drink every day for the first couple of weeks. Continue to monitor the amount of moisture in the ground, and water the plant before the ground dries out around the plants base.
If you prefer to grow your miniature roses indoors, you will have to select a window that provides ample sunlight. If it looks as though the plant is not growing or bushing out, move it to another window. Even in the pot, the plant will require a lot of water, so check it everyday to be sure the soil is kept moist.
If your miniature rose bush is thriving and growing rapidly, you may need to transplant it to a larger pot. Do not increase the flower pot size too drastically, or the plant will refuse to grow. It needs a bit of cramping on its roots to continue to grow, just not to much cramping.
That's really all there is to it. Keep the plant well watered, whether it is indoors or outside, and your miniature rose bush will continue growing and producing beautiful flowers for years to come.
Just make sure you are aware that even though it is a miniature rose bush, it will grow to be about 3 to 4 foot tall. Allow the plant plenty of space, when you are deciding where to put it, or it will eventually look cramped.
By: Lee R. Martin
Resource Site : http://www.WonderfulRoses.com
Come to the site and look around. Lots of good information.
Also a Free Mini-Course, for anyone wanting more knowledge about rose gardening.
Categories: Gardening Feeds
Orchid Growing Tips - Tips That Matter!
Growing orchids can be one of the most rewarding and satisfying hobbies that you will ever undertake . When you do begin growing orchids, one thing is absolutely certain, you will need to be well informed and knowledgeable on the growing of orchids and orchid care. This article will help you to get started with some useful orchid growing tips that I feel are the most important when just starting this exciting adventure.
Selecting Your Orchid
There are three species of orchids that are most suitable for growing indoors. These are the phalaenopsis or moth orchids that requires not so much light and can adapt easily to indoor settings. The Cattleya species which requires much more light to grow well indoors and finally there is the Dendrobiums species. Orchids that grow well outdoors are the Cymbidium, Dendrobium, Cattleya Hybrids, Laelia, and Stanhopea.
Essential H2O
The knowledge of Watering is probably one of the most important factors when growing orchids. The right combination of air and water should be thought of carefully when watering orchids, as excess moisture can cause the roots to rot which is true of most plants. Some varieties of orchids prefer their roots dry, while others need more moisture. The amount of watering should depend on the temperature and humidity of the environment, and the species of the orchids.
Tropical orchids need a warm, humid atmosphere because most of them do not have superior root systems. You must have a water tank or pool in the center of the plants to provide the moisture. Orchids should be watered 2-3 times a day and should not be allowed to dry up during the summer months. Growing plants need extra water just like plants in baskets need more water than those in pots. Orchids which have recently been potted should be watered cautiously while waiting for the new roots to emerge.
Humid conditions should be provided as well. Anywhere between 60-70% should do. Humidity is also very important for these plants. Typically if the substrate is moist and the temperature is set to the correct levels then the humidity will take care of itself with the aid of the live plants. Humidity plays a large part and is one of the most important orchid growing tips I can give you.
The Energy of the Sun
The third orchid growing tips is that orchids require enough light not only to stay alive, but also to grow and ultimately to produce flowers. A good indication is to determine if they are receiving enough light is by examining the leaves. Moderate to light green leaves means they are getting the right amount, while deeper and dark green leaves means the level of light is not that good. Excessive heat may cause the leaves to suffer sunburn and also exhaust the food reserves of the plant. If you notice that the leaves are yellowing like autumn leaves then you know that they have had to much heat.
Feeding Your Orchids
The minerals that are essential for orchids and are easily depleted are the following: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). Growers differ in the fertilizer compositions and regiments they employ. Inorganic fertilizers that combine mineral salts and are soluble in water are the easiest to use and most commonly available. High phosphorus content in fertilizer is said to be the factor responsible for stimulating and increasing orchid flowering. The decrease in excess nitrogen allows for more abundant blooms among orchids.
Pots and Mixes
The final piece of advice from my orchid growing tips is to ensure you have the correct pot for your orchid. Believe it or not but this is of primary importance! There are three types of pots, plastic, terracota and basket. I prefer terracota and I always make sure the pot is the right size for my orchid. With regards to mixes I use a combination of organic fibers and inorganic materials. The organic choices are Fir Bark, Redwood Bark, Coconut Husks, Sphagnum Moss and tree Fern Fiber and for Inorganic choices include Charcoal, Lava rock, Alifor are, Pearlite and Turface.
By: James R Connor
James Connor is an Orchid specialist who has a number of websites on the care and cultivation of Orchids. If you would like to know more check out OrchidGrowingTips.org for more information about Growing Orchids and receive Your FREE Report on Growing Orchids.
Selecting Your Orchid
There are three species of orchids that are most suitable for growing indoors. These are the phalaenopsis or moth orchids that requires not so much light and can adapt easily to indoor settings. The Cattleya species which requires much more light to grow well indoors and finally there is the Dendrobiums species. Orchids that grow well outdoors are the Cymbidium, Dendrobium, Cattleya Hybrids, Laelia, and Stanhopea.
Essential H2O
The knowledge of Watering is probably one of the most important factors when growing orchids. The right combination of air and water should be thought of carefully when watering orchids, as excess moisture can cause the roots to rot which is true of most plants. Some varieties of orchids prefer their roots dry, while others need more moisture. The amount of watering should depend on the temperature and humidity of the environment, and the species of the orchids.
Tropical orchids need a warm, humid atmosphere because most of them do not have superior root systems. You must have a water tank or pool in the center of the plants to provide the moisture. Orchids should be watered 2-3 times a day and should not be allowed to dry up during the summer months. Growing plants need extra water just like plants in baskets need more water than those in pots. Orchids which have recently been potted should be watered cautiously while waiting for the new roots to emerge.
Humid conditions should be provided as well. Anywhere between 60-70% should do. Humidity is also very important for these plants. Typically if the substrate is moist and the temperature is set to the correct levels then the humidity will take care of itself with the aid of the live plants. Humidity plays a large part and is one of the most important orchid growing tips I can give you.
The Energy of the Sun
The third orchid growing tips is that orchids require enough light not only to stay alive, but also to grow and ultimately to produce flowers. A good indication is to determine if they are receiving enough light is by examining the leaves. Moderate to light green leaves means they are getting the right amount, while deeper and dark green leaves means the level of light is not that good. Excessive heat may cause the leaves to suffer sunburn and also exhaust the food reserves of the plant. If you notice that the leaves are yellowing like autumn leaves then you know that they have had to much heat.
Feeding Your Orchids
The minerals that are essential for orchids and are easily depleted are the following: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). Growers differ in the fertilizer compositions and regiments they employ. Inorganic fertilizers that combine mineral salts and are soluble in water are the easiest to use and most commonly available. High phosphorus content in fertilizer is said to be the factor responsible for stimulating and increasing orchid flowering. The decrease in excess nitrogen allows for more abundant blooms among orchids.
Pots and Mixes
The final piece of advice from my orchid growing tips is to ensure you have the correct pot for your orchid. Believe it or not but this is of primary importance! There are three types of pots, plastic, terracota and basket. I prefer terracota and I always make sure the pot is the right size for my orchid. With regards to mixes I use a combination of organic fibers and inorganic materials. The organic choices are Fir Bark, Redwood Bark, Coconut Husks, Sphagnum Moss and tree Fern Fiber and for Inorganic choices include Charcoal, Lava rock, Alifor are, Pearlite and Turface.
By: James R Connor
James Connor is an Orchid specialist who has a number of websites on the care and cultivation of Orchids. If you would like to know more check out OrchidGrowingTips.org for more information about Growing Orchids and receive Your FREE Report on Growing Orchids.
Categories: Gardening Feeds
Choosing and Growing Climbing Roses
There is very little that is more beautiful or that looks more magical when incorporated into your landscape than a climbing rose. It is impossible to look at a rose encrusted vine creeping up the side of a trellis and not have romantic thoughts. Although climbing roses are most often found weaving up and around a trellis, it is possible to train one to climb the side of a building, to wind around a decorative column, or accent a boundary. Some clever gardeners have even used climbing walls to turn fences into living works of art.
One of the concerns that many rose lovers have when they are looking at incorporating climbing roses into their garden is that some climbing roses are not capable of withstanding the elements, however over the years botanists have been able to create several species of climbing roses that are capable of living through the unpredictable weather that many states experience. When you are selecting a climbing rose, make sure you are confident that one you select has been bred to survive your winters.
There are three basic types of climbing roses that you can choose from.
Rambling Roses
Rambling climbing roses are perhaps the most impressive in terms of growth. Some surprised growers have reported that their rambling roses have grown twenty feet in a single season. Several varieties of rambling roses have extremely large blooms. The downside to rambling roses is that they seem to be extremely susceptible to mildew.
True Climbers
True climbers are the perfect choice for any rose lover who is looking for a climbing rose that has extremely large blossoms. These roses have clusters of blossoms making the already large blooms look even larger. When you are looking at true climbers you should know that there are actually two types of true climbing roses; climbing hybrid tea roses and bush climbers. The climbing hybrid tea roses usually do not bloom as long as bush climbers and they are more susceptible to disease.
Trailers
Trailing roses are an excellent choice in climbing roses because they are extremely resistant to the diseases that often compromise other varieties of climbing roses. The downside to growing trailing roses is that they need to be staked or they will not have enough support to grow properly.
When to Plant Climbing Roses
Climbing roses do best when they are planted in the early spring. Since the start of spring can vary from state to state, you should check when the best time to start planting. Make sure that there is no chance that you are going to experience a frost after you have planted your roses. Your climbing rose will be more likely to survive winter if it has had a minimum of six months to establish a solid root base.
Caring for Climbing Roses
After you have planted your climbing rose you need to make sure that you are vigilant about watering it a least once a week, make sure that you do not over water it as mildew is one of the leading causes of rose death. When your rose has grown enough so that it reaches whatever you want it climb, make sure you fasten it to the object, this will train it to properly climb.
By: Kirby Cranson
http://www.creditbest.net/
A self-professed personal finance geek. I search for, read about, talk about, and postulate about personal finance when I am not working or sleeping.
One of the concerns that many rose lovers have when they are looking at incorporating climbing roses into their garden is that some climbing roses are not capable of withstanding the elements, however over the years botanists have been able to create several species of climbing roses that are capable of living through the unpredictable weather that many states experience. When you are selecting a climbing rose, make sure you are confident that one you select has been bred to survive your winters.
There are three basic types of climbing roses that you can choose from.
Rambling Roses
Rambling climbing roses are perhaps the most impressive in terms of growth. Some surprised growers have reported that their rambling roses have grown twenty feet in a single season. Several varieties of rambling roses have extremely large blooms. The downside to rambling roses is that they seem to be extremely susceptible to mildew.
True Climbers
True climbers are the perfect choice for any rose lover who is looking for a climbing rose that has extremely large blossoms. These roses have clusters of blossoms making the already large blooms look even larger. When you are looking at true climbers you should know that there are actually two types of true climbing roses; climbing hybrid tea roses and bush climbers. The climbing hybrid tea roses usually do not bloom as long as bush climbers and they are more susceptible to disease.
Trailers
Trailing roses are an excellent choice in climbing roses because they are extremely resistant to the diseases that often compromise other varieties of climbing roses. The downside to growing trailing roses is that they need to be staked or they will not have enough support to grow properly.
When to Plant Climbing Roses
Climbing roses do best when they are planted in the early spring. Since the start of spring can vary from state to state, you should check when the best time to start planting. Make sure that there is no chance that you are going to experience a frost after you have planted your roses. Your climbing rose will be more likely to survive winter if it has had a minimum of six months to establish a solid root base.
Caring for Climbing Roses
After you have planted your climbing rose you need to make sure that you are vigilant about watering it a least once a week, make sure that you do not over water it as mildew is one of the leading causes of rose death. When your rose has grown enough so that it reaches whatever you want it climb, make sure you fasten it to the object, this will train it to properly climb.
By: Kirby Cranson
http://www.creditbest.net/
A self-professed personal finance geek. I search for, read about, talk about, and postulate about personal finance when I am not working or sleeping.
Categories: Gardening Feeds
Anyone Can Grow a Great Spider Plant
A spider plant is a great choice for a houseplant. It is attractive and easy to take care of. It is possible to over or under water, but they are much more resilient than other plants. They also have a long life span.
The plants have long leaves that are narrow and come in other variations such as dark green with yellow striping, variegated, speckled and more. A spider plant will grow fast and produce a lot of foliage, which means they are a great choice for decorating. When they grow, they also tolerate being root bound quite well.
The watering requirements of the plant require a very small effort, however do not over water because it can cause root rot. A consistently moist soil with occasional dry periods is best recommended. Spider plants can go for several days without being watered, especially during the fall and winter, when they are less active.
If you see the tips are growing brown or become spotted, you need to change the kind of water you are using. If you have been using tap water, then it is okay depending where you live. If in the city, the water supply may have a high chlorine concentration and possibly fluorine as well. These minerals can damage your plant, so try using rainwater or purified water free of minerals to see if the problem will be alleviated.
Spider plants are flexible with light requirements, they do quite well in indirect sunlight, but can also handle direct and bright lights for several hours daily. The idea is to give them a few hours of light that is not in an area that is too hot or too cold. They can stand temps anywhere from 55-65° F, this is a part of their natural environment.
The plants are very easy about fertilizer requirements also, but it is important no to overdo it. A liquid NPK mix applied to the plant every three to four months is sufficient during the growing season. There is no need to do it in the fall or winter, that means generally they only get two or three feedings per year.
In the summer time, spider plants produce small, star shaped flowers that are white. The flowers grow along the stalk that can reach over three feet in length. If you notice the stalk is leaning or bending, it is a good idea to stake it. The plant may also bloom more than once and can develop flowers again in spring or early fall.
Spider plants make a beautiful hanging basket, particularly when they are older and have an abundance of leaves. They can grow out of a pot, so you need to divide and replant about every two years. Spider plants can reach a few feet wide and even apart from flower stalks, can get up to two feet in height. A healthy plant can grow so much it will crack a clay pot.
You can add a beautiful look to your indoor plant garden with this plant that is easy to take care of, you should try a spider plant.
By: Kent Higgins
Now you can remove the confusion in your mind on the topic of caring for spider plants. Don't be shy - check us out at plant-care.com.
The plants have long leaves that are narrow and come in other variations such as dark green with yellow striping, variegated, speckled and more. A spider plant will grow fast and produce a lot of foliage, which means they are a great choice for decorating. When they grow, they also tolerate being root bound quite well.
The watering requirements of the plant require a very small effort, however do not over water because it can cause root rot. A consistently moist soil with occasional dry periods is best recommended. Spider plants can go for several days without being watered, especially during the fall and winter, when they are less active.
If you see the tips are growing brown or become spotted, you need to change the kind of water you are using. If you have been using tap water, then it is okay depending where you live. If in the city, the water supply may have a high chlorine concentration and possibly fluorine as well. These minerals can damage your plant, so try using rainwater or purified water free of minerals to see if the problem will be alleviated.
Spider plants are flexible with light requirements, they do quite well in indirect sunlight, but can also handle direct and bright lights for several hours daily. The idea is to give them a few hours of light that is not in an area that is too hot or too cold. They can stand temps anywhere from 55-65° F, this is a part of their natural environment.
The plants are very easy about fertilizer requirements also, but it is important no to overdo it. A liquid NPK mix applied to the plant every three to four months is sufficient during the growing season. There is no need to do it in the fall or winter, that means generally they only get two or three feedings per year.
In the summer time, spider plants produce small, star shaped flowers that are white. The flowers grow along the stalk that can reach over three feet in length. If you notice the stalk is leaning or bending, it is a good idea to stake it. The plant may also bloom more than once and can develop flowers again in spring or early fall.
Spider plants make a beautiful hanging basket, particularly when they are older and have an abundance of leaves. They can grow out of a pot, so you need to divide and replant about every two years. Spider plants can reach a few feet wide and even apart from flower stalks, can get up to two feet in height. A healthy plant can grow so much it will crack a clay pot.
You can add a beautiful look to your indoor plant garden with this plant that is easy to take care of, you should try a spider plant.
By: Kent Higgins
Now you can remove the confusion in your mind on the topic of caring for spider plants. Don't be shy - check us out at plant-care.com.
Categories: Gardening Feeds
Lettuce in Moonlight
Moon Phase Planting of Lettuce
Lettuce should be planted when the moon is in the 1st Quarter (i.e. waxing) and in one of the following Zodiac Signs: Cancer, Scorpio, Pisces, Libra, Taurus
Planting and Culture
Almost any fairly good garden soil that is well drained and not excessively acid is suitable for lettuce. The only real secret about growing fine plants is to keep them uncrowded and growing rapidly. Rapid growth demands an abundance of moisture plus an abundance of natural plant nutrients. Mature compost humus or well-rotted manure should be dug in along the row before the seed is sown. In transplanting, a generous amount of organic humus should be worked into the hole before the plant is set out.
Wild lettuce prefers a temperate climate and its cultivated descendants naturally thrive best during cool weather, although some loose-leafed strains are valued for their ability to grow during summer heat.
Heading lettuce may be planted to head-up either during the early summer or the fall. For the early crop the seed should be sown about 1/4 inch deep in flats or similar containers and placed in a sunny window or a cold frame about the beginning of March. The young plants should be ready to set out early in April. In the flats, the seed should be thinly sown and the seedlings thinned just as soon as the leaves touch. Probably no fault is more universal than sowing lettuce seed too thickly.
For the spring crop, start seed indoors in flats or pots in a sunny, cool (50 to 60°F. [10 to 15.56'C.]) location. Or, sow seed outside in a hotbed or cold frame, about four to six weeks before the last severe frost. One seed packet will sow a 100-foot row. For a good potting mixture, sift together one part sand, one part good loam and one part compost. Keep moist and, when the seedlings have at least their first set of true leaves, transplant to plant bands or flats. Gradually harden off the plants by setting them outdoors during the sunny part of the day.
Transplanting
Setting the transplants out very early is essential. In fact, some gardeners make a practice of sowing their lettuce seed in the fall in a carefully prepared area. The seedlings become fairly large before severe frost. As cold weather approaches, the seedlings are covered with a gradually deepened layer of loose straw, leaves, twigs, or other materials. Under this, the small plants survive the winter easily and the gardener has a heavy supply of sturdy, very early seedlings upon which to draw.
In setting out the transplants, put them about 15 inches apart in the row in rows about two feet apart. When seed is sown directly into the garden, the seedlings should be ruthlessly thinned to stand at least a foot apart to prevent overcrowding.
Care
In the early stages of growth the plant has a cluster of shallow feeding rootlets. This condition makes it ideal for transplanting but, while small, makes it an easy victim of weeds. A light mulching of compost sifted around the plants will do much to keep down weedy growth and later will supply easily available plant nutrients.
Lettuce plants will not do their best unless they have a very liberal supply of moisture. Normally the supply of rainwater is insufficient and unreliable. It will aid your plants to continue rapid growth during dry weather if you water them with rainwater which has filtered through a container holding a quantity of fertile compost.
It may be that for one of many reasons your plants do not reach the heading stage before the arrival of hot weather. Many gardeners have had this experience. ' The most popular solution to the problem consists in covering the plants so as to give them partial shade. A few stakes driven into the ground along the sides of the rows may be used to support a length of cheesecloth stretched upon them.
A slightly heavier framework may be made to support a thin layer of brush, or a slat roof in which the slats are alternated with spaces about equal to the width of the slats. Any such arrangement which excludes excessive sunlight will usually produce the coolness necessary to the plants if they are to form satisfactory heads. Some gardeners make good use of a partially shaded spot in the garden as a favored site for lettuce.
Diseases and Pests
Lettuce rot, which first affects the lowest leaves in contact with the soil and then spreads through the plant, can be avoided by spreading clean sand over the surface of the soil. Fungus and bacterial diseases are best avoided by rotating the crop. Do not plant lettuce in the same rows two years in succession and do not plant where endive, chicory or dandelion have just grown. These are all subject to the same diseases.
Insects which cause the greatest damage in new lettuce plantings are cutworms and slugs. Cutworms may be outwitted if loose collars of stiff paper are put on the seedlings when they are planted. The collars are made about one to 1 1/2 inches in diameter and are wide enough so that when 1/2 inch is buried in the soil an inch or more remains as a barricade above ground.
If slugs are a problem, limestone or wood ashes may be sprinkled over the soil around the plants to discourage them. In a wet season when slugs are very bad, do not use small baskets or boxes to cover newly planted seedlings. These only act as shelters during the hot part of the day and slugs may sometimes be found by the dozens inside inverted berry boxes. Instead, shade seedlings with a canopy held a foot or more above the bed.
Harvesting
Pick lettuce in the early morning hours to preserve the crispness it acquired during the cool of the night. Immediately after being picked, it should be washed thoroughly but as briefly as possible and dried immediately to prevent loss of vitamins. If stored in a closed container in the refrigerator, it will retain its crispness for days.
Loose-leaf types should be cut off at ground level and the roots left in the soil. Later in the season the roots will send up new leaves for a second crop.
By: Gene DeFazzio
moonGROW.com http://www.moonGROW.com is a website delving into Moon Phase and Zodiac Sign Organic gardening. By Gene DeFazzio, this site provides the basics of both astrological and organic growing for the home gardener.
Lettuce should be planted when the moon is in the 1st Quarter (i.e. waxing) and in one of the following Zodiac Signs: Cancer, Scorpio, Pisces, Libra, Taurus
Planting and Culture
Almost any fairly good garden soil that is well drained and not excessively acid is suitable for lettuce. The only real secret about growing fine plants is to keep them uncrowded and growing rapidly. Rapid growth demands an abundance of moisture plus an abundance of natural plant nutrients. Mature compost humus or well-rotted manure should be dug in along the row before the seed is sown. In transplanting, a generous amount of organic humus should be worked into the hole before the plant is set out.
Wild lettuce prefers a temperate climate and its cultivated descendants naturally thrive best during cool weather, although some loose-leafed strains are valued for their ability to grow during summer heat.
Heading lettuce may be planted to head-up either during the early summer or the fall. For the early crop the seed should be sown about 1/4 inch deep in flats or similar containers and placed in a sunny window or a cold frame about the beginning of March. The young plants should be ready to set out early in April. In the flats, the seed should be thinly sown and the seedlings thinned just as soon as the leaves touch. Probably no fault is more universal than sowing lettuce seed too thickly.
For the spring crop, start seed indoors in flats or pots in a sunny, cool (50 to 60°F. [10 to 15.56'C.]) location. Or, sow seed outside in a hotbed or cold frame, about four to six weeks before the last severe frost. One seed packet will sow a 100-foot row. For a good potting mixture, sift together one part sand, one part good loam and one part compost. Keep moist and, when the seedlings have at least their first set of true leaves, transplant to plant bands or flats. Gradually harden off the plants by setting them outdoors during the sunny part of the day.
Transplanting
Setting the transplants out very early is essential. In fact, some gardeners make a practice of sowing their lettuce seed in the fall in a carefully prepared area. The seedlings become fairly large before severe frost. As cold weather approaches, the seedlings are covered with a gradually deepened layer of loose straw, leaves, twigs, or other materials. Under this, the small plants survive the winter easily and the gardener has a heavy supply of sturdy, very early seedlings upon which to draw.
In setting out the transplants, put them about 15 inches apart in the row in rows about two feet apart. When seed is sown directly into the garden, the seedlings should be ruthlessly thinned to stand at least a foot apart to prevent overcrowding.
Care
In the early stages of growth the plant has a cluster of shallow feeding rootlets. This condition makes it ideal for transplanting but, while small, makes it an easy victim of weeds. A light mulching of compost sifted around the plants will do much to keep down weedy growth and later will supply easily available plant nutrients.
Lettuce plants will not do their best unless they have a very liberal supply of moisture. Normally the supply of rainwater is insufficient and unreliable. It will aid your plants to continue rapid growth during dry weather if you water them with rainwater which has filtered through a container holding a quantity of fertile compost.
It may be that for one of many reasons your plants do not reach the heading stage before the arrival of hot weather. Many gardeners have had this experience. ' The most popular solution to the problem consists in covering the plants so as to give them partial shade. A few stakes driven into the ground along the sides of the rows may be used to support a length of cheesecloth stretched upon them.
A slightly heavier framework may be made to support a thin layer of brush, or a slat roof in which the slats are alternated with spaces about equal to the width of the slats. Any such arrangement which excludes excessive sunlight will usually produce the coolness necessary to the plants if they are to form satisfactory heads. Some gardeners make good use of a partially shaded spot in the garden as a favored site for lettuce.
Diseases and Pests
Lettuce rot, which first affects the lowest leaves in contact with the soil and then spreads through the plant, can be avoided by spreading clean sand over the surface of the soil. Fungus and bacterial diseases are best avoided by rotating the crop. Do not plant lettuce in the same rows two years in succession and do not plant where endive, chicory or dandelion have just grown. These are all subject to the same diseases.
Insects which cause the greatest damage in new lettuce plantings are cutworms and slugs. Cutworms may be outwitted if loose collars of stiff paper are put on the seedlings when they are planted. The collars are made about one to 1 1/2 inches in diameter and are wide enough so that when 1/2 inch is buried in the soil an inch or more remains as a barricade above ground.
If slugs are a problem, limestone or wood ashes may be sprinkled over the soil around the plants to discourage them. In a wet season when slugs are very bad, do not use small baskets or boxes to cover newly planted seedlings. These only act as shelters during the hot part of the day and slugs may sometimes be found by the dozens inside inverted berry boxes. Instead, shade seedlings with a canopy held a foot or more above the bed.
Harvesting
Pick lettuce in the early morning hours to preserve the crispness it acquired during the cool of the night. Immediately after being picked, it should be washed thoroughly but as briefly as possible and dried immediately to prevent loss of vitamins. If stored in a closed container in the refrigerator, it will retain its crispness for days.
Loose-leaf types should be cut off at ground level and the roots left in the soil. Later in the season the roots will send up new leaves for a second crop.
By: Gene DeFazzio
moonGROW.com http://www.moonGROW.com is a website delving into Moon Phase and Zodiac Sign Organic gardening. By Gene DeFazzio, this site provides the basics of both astrological and organic growing for the home gardener.
Categories: Gardening Feeds
Organic Gardening - Tips on Getting Ready For the Start of a New Growing Season
Spring is the start of a new growing season. Time to get your garden ready for planting and finish what you couldn't get done before winter set in.
Soil is the key to having a successful organic garden. The first and most important part in preparing your garden for a new growing season is to know what you are working with. Testing your soil is very important and even more important if your crops the year before didn't do as well as you would of liked them too.
Once your soil has been tested and you know what you need for soil amendments you can start working the soil in your garden to get ready for planting. Turning your soil over by tilling, plowing or by hand with a spade aerates the soil by exposing new soil to the air, which will activate microbes that are in the soil and other organic matter to help make fertile soil. You want to make sure that your soil is dry enough before you start working with it. If you take a hand full of soil and squeeze it and it stays in the form of a solid ball the soil is to wet. Working wet soil will destroy the texture of the soil. The soil will just be full of clods when it dries and the restoration of the soil can take a lot of work and time that you don't need to lose out of the growing season. If the area that you plant your garden is usually wet in the spring and dry in the fall you should consider a fall preparation of your garden. This way in the spring there will only be a minimal amount of hand work needed to prepare and start planting.
Now that the soil in your garden has been turned over it's time to add a layer of compost to feed the soil. A good healthy soil structure is one that will retain moisture, drain well and a lot of nutrient rich humus to feed your plants. Feeding the soil is different that feeding your plants. When you feed the soil the nutrients are there for the plants to feed from as they need too. When fertilizing you are applying nutrients to the soil and the plants will only take what they need when they need it and the rest gets diluted or evaporated away. Having a good nutrient rich soil is the best way to supply the plants in your garden the nutrition they need.
Now that you have your garden prepared and a good healthy nutrient rich soil it is time to start planting. Don't be afraid to add compost to the hole you dig for your new plants. The plants will love you for it.
A environment friendly and healthy way of gardening. Organic Gardening is away of gardening in harmony with nature. Growing a healthy and productive crop in a way that is healthier for both you and the environment.
By: John Yazo
http://www.organicheirloomgardening.com
Soil is the key to having a successful organic garden. The first and most important part in preparing your garden for a new growing season is to know what you are working with. Testing your soil is very important and even more important if your crops the year before didn't do as well as you would of liked them too.
Once your soil has been tested and you know what you need for soil amendments you can start working the soil in your garden to get ready for planting. Turning your soil over by tilling, plowing or by hand with a spade aerates the soil by exposing new soil to the air, which will activate microbes that are in the soil and other organic matter to help make fertile soil. You want to make sure that your soil is dry enough before you start working with it. If you take a hand full of soil and squeeze it and it stays in the form of a solid ball the soil is to wet. Working wet soil will destroy the texture of the soil. The soil will just be full of clods when it dries and the restoration of the soil can take a lot of work and time that you don't need to lose out of the growing season. If the area that you plant your garden is usually wet in the spring and dry in the fall you should consider a fall preparation of your garden. This way in the spring there will only be a minimal amount of hand work needed to prepare and start planting.
Now that the soil in your garden has been turned over it's time to add a layer of compost to feed the soil. A good healthy soil structure is one that will retain moisture, drain well and a lot of nutrient rich humus to feed your plants. Feeding the soil is different that feeding your plants. When you feed the soil the nutrients are there for the plants to feed from as they need too. When fertilizing you are applying nutrients to the soil and the plants will only take what they need when they need it and the rest gets diluted or evaporated away. Having a good nutrient rich soil is the best way to supply the plants in your garden the nutrition they need.
Now that you have your garden prepared and a good healthy nutrient rich soil it is time to start planting. Don't be afraid to add compost to the hole you dig for your new plants. The plants will love you for it.
A environment friendly and healthy way of gardening. Organic Gardening is away of gardening in harmony with nature. Growing a healthy and productive crop in a way that is healthier for both you and the environment.
By: John Yazo
http://www.organicheirloomgardening.com
Categories: Gardening Feeds
New TV Gardening Series: "Growing A Greener World"
New TV Gardening Series: "Growing A Greener World"
Categories: Gardening Feeds
A Winter Garden treasure from Chile
Azara microphylla in full bloom and smells of vanilla and white chocolate.
Categories: Gardening Feeds
For a Restaurateur to Be, a Vegetable Garden That Won’t
Highlights from “You’re the Boss,” the small-business blog of The New York Times.
Categories: Gardening Feeds
10 Green Wedding Tips - Mon, 01 Mar 2010 PST
Most brides dream of their wedding day most their lives. It begins at a very young age when introduced to the fairytale stories of princesses like Cinderella. For years, young girls plan their dream weddings and sift through countless magazines dreaming of the day they find their prince, have their own fairytale wedding, and live happily ever after.
Categories: Gardening Feeds
Cheap, but fabulous early spring color!
Treat yourself to some color! $1 primroses at your local QFC!
Categories: Gardening Feeds
The Transition Game
Walt Frazier, the former New York Knicks star, has settled in on St. Croix and discovered his green thumb.
Categories: Gardening Feeds
The Spotless Garden
Aquaponic gardens use fish, water and no soil — and may be the future of food growing.
Categories: Gardening Feeds
Winter Coats No Longer the Fashion for Fig Trees
Greek and Italian immigrants have long wrapped their trees to protect them from the cold. Social changes are causing the custom’s demise — but the trees are surviving anyway.
Categories: Gardening Feeds
Pretty with Pink
It's always so thrilling to have a plant I brought back from China do well and flower in my garden. This plant was actually sent to me by a collecting colleague from Atlanta, Georgia, Scott McMahan of McMahan Nursery because Riz didn't think much about collecting it on his own. I am enthralled by this Daphne relative and it looks absolutely stunning right now.
Categories: Gardening Feeds
Flower Show "Awards" Wrap-Up
I spent the last few days just soaking in the show and not worrying about reporting EVERYTHING once it happens. Well, for one, someone has probably beaten me to it who's career is really "on the line" (lord, this woman threw a fit when the wireless in the press room cut off her internet connection as she was blogging) and, second, no one's paying me to do what I'm doing! On top of that, not all that many people follow my blog postings anyway.
Categories: Gardening Feeds
Ride public transportation and save - Mon, 08 Feb 2010 PST
As everyone settles into new routines for 2010, many individuals are looking for ways to cut costs. Whether in an attempt to be more "green" or to save money for a college fund, people want options that will not adversely impact their lifestyles or daily habits.
Categories: Gardening Feeds
Northwest Flower & Garden Show: Roger Gossler tempts us with shrubs he loves
After a day at the Northwest Flower and Garden Show, I feel like I've barely dipped my toe in the water. So much to chose from, and I'm having trouble making decisions.
Kym Pokorny, The Oregonian
http://connect.oregonlive.com/user/kpokorny/index.html
Categories: Gardening Feeds

